How to Clean Bones Tutorial part 3, whitening
How to Clean Bones Tutorial part 3 will walk you through how to whiten those bones up. Some people refer to whitening as “bleaching” but bleach has nothing to do with the process. Remember my story about using bleach on a skull in part 2? Step away from the bleach!
Optional Part to a Finish Bone
Some people prefer the natural whiteness that a bone inherently has once the grease has been evicted. You may find yourself done at this point with no reason to continue with this step or the next. That is perfectly acceptable. I have several skulls that I never whitened or sealed. However, if you find yourself desiring that whiter than white shade of white for your collection, then this step is for you.
Are They Ready for Whitening?
If the bones or skulls still have dark spots on them see part 2 again. Whitening will do no good if part 2, de-greasing, has not been done thoroughly. Any remaining grease will prevent, or later erase, what whitening is for: removing colored stains and making a bright white bone.
How to Clean Bones Tutorial part 3: options for whitening
• hydrogen peroxide
It comes it a few forms and strengths. The only one I am familiar with using is the kind bought at any drug store in the brown bottles. Use full strength, do not dilute with water, for a faster finish. Usually a 24 hour soak is enough to turn that bone white. Don’t leave any longer than a day or two as it will eventually weaken the bone if left too long. Plus, it has a short shelf life, especially when outside of the bottle!
I have seen others use the paste form of hydrogen peroxide found in beauty supply stores. I do not personally have any experience with this form. What I understand is that you coat your skull in the paste, then wrap in plastic wrap and place near a source of warmth or in front of a heater. If it requires rinsing afterward or is then finished once cooled, I am not sure.
Well, That Was Fast For Once
Not so fast. Let them dry for a few months before sealing. Sometimes I place them in front of a fan for a few weeks to help speed the drying. Remember, bones and skulls are very porous materials, it can take months and even years for moisture and grease inside them to surface if just left to sit. Heat and moving air can help speed the process. If you decide to seal in part 4, trapping in moisture can grow bacteria, mold, and other bad things that will eventually discolor your white bone. So be sure to let the bone dry thoroughly before sealing. I will reiterate this in part 4 as once you seal, it is hard to go back a part to fix something.
Come Back For The Next Step of How to Clean Bones Tutorial!
Cleaning bones is a multi-step process and you are nearly done. For some, these first three parts suffice. However, if you want to seal and preserve this bone for a life time or longer you might want to seal the bone. So please check out part 4 soon!
As well, if you’ve found this article helpful please consider supporting us here at Root Inspirations by buying a $1 coloring page (several have skulls in them!) or perhaps some bone or gourd art at our store! Thank you.
